With my best attempts at threading the belt, I ended up with only enough slack for an exhaust cam about half the size of what is there, so clearly I did not have the tb threaded on properly. This thread on Swedespeed digresses a lot-but it sounds like he had a heck of a time with his as well: I'll start again in the morning-but unfortunately I was already messing around with the tensioner, trying to understand the eccentric, so I will need to figure out what the default state is (where there would be the most slack). Thanks again-I appreciate the clarification and the fact that I will have to start the car and readjust. For that, you just have to play with it until it comes out right after the bolt is torqued and the engine has run. Part of the problem on setting the tension, why it usually takes more than one shot to get it right, is that the tension changes as the center bolt gets torqued down. Once the belt is on then you can snug the center bolt enough to tweak the tensioner to the center indicator position before you torque the center bolt down to specification. Loosen the center bolt on the tensioner to zero torque - finger tight, that way the tensioner can't inadvertently tighten. It won't have a ton of slack but enough to get the belt on with no problem. Ozark Lee wrote:The belt should thread on with the tensioner in its default, out of the box, state. 2 which shows the needle position when adjusting the camshaft belt tensioner at different engine temperatures. ![]() A suitable temperature is approximately 20☌/68° F.Īt higher temperatures, for example with engine at operating temperature or at higher ambient temperature, the indicator is farther to the right. Note: This adjustment is always carried out on a cold engine. Needle Position at Different Temperatures: Press the camshaft belt and check that the belt tensioner needle moves freely. If the bolts holding either cam wheel had been loosened, tighten them at this time to 20 Nm (15 ft.-lb.).ĩ. Press on the timing belt and verify that the indicator moves in response to the pressure.Ĩ. If the needle exits the window to the left, it must be readjusted past the window so that it enters from the right. Note: When setting the final adjustment, the needle (C) must enter the adjustment window (B) from the right. ![]() Hold the eccentric secure and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm (15 ft.-lb.). Turn the eccentric (A) back clockwise until the indicator (C) reaches the correct position based on the temperature of the engine (see Fig. I have been working with the belt tight to crankshaft pulley, up over tensioner and water pump on left, and holding it as tight as possible bringing it up around the idler and over intake cam pulley-and that leaves me with no possible way of getting the belt over the exhaust cam pulley.Įdit to add: checked the rib count on the belt and it seems to be the same as the one I took off.įront view of adjuster VolvoFig1gif_00000015776.gif (6.67 KiB) Viewed 4251 timesĥ. ![]() So are you supposed to install the tensioner after the belt is routed? Unfortunately the mechanical tensioner addendum just says 'install the timing belt' before following the directions it gives for adjusting the tension range-and my problem is-when I try to route the timing belt, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get it on-it seems to be too short. ![]() Have new mechanical tensioner installed to 5 ft/lbs (per link on this thread) and not adjusted: got everything apart-(had to bend hard line down and out of the way to remove old belt) Not only that, my '99 seems to have some hard line running right along the bottom where you have to remove bottom guard and snake the new belt in. php?t=8803 ) apply to the hydraulic tensioner cars. Watched the videos-Robert DIY and the FCP video-then go to work, only to find that the very clear instructions on these videos (and elsewhere on this forum-eg this thread.
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